Category: Managing the Flock

Chickens and the Extreme Heat, 110+

It’s tough trying to keep chickens cool in this heat, but I have a few tips I’d like to share. Chickens’ body temperatures are about 106 Fahrenheit and they keep their temperature steady by converting energy that comes from feed into heat. In other words, the less heat they need the less food they need to eat. However, the effect of reduced food consumption combined with excessive heat often causes a radical drop in egg production. In some cases, they may quit laying altogether.
Heat stress is a serious matter, once birds are observed as lethargic, with no clucking or preening, and just lying around is when death often follows.
Chickens do acclimate after a while, in layers, there is scientific evidence that their temperature will stabilize a few degrees higher three to five days after the initial exposure to heat. Meaning, if a chicken goes through repeated heat exposure it will adapt and be able to survive at five degrees higher than before acclimation.
Chickens don’t have sweat glands so they can’t perspire, instead, they pant like a dog. Dehydration or heat stress is the number one cause of death, so cool clean water is vital to their survival. They do not like hot water so drag yourself out into ovenland armed with a garden hose and change the drinkers at least twice a day, or more! Use buckets or large bowls, keep it simple so it’s not such a big ordeal.
As water evaporates it cools the air, so many buckets of water scattered around the yard are extremely beneficial. Hose down the roof and any walls that might surround the enclosed area the birds are in, this will help cool their environment as the water evaporates.
Layers upon layers of chicken droppings hold heat in. Clean the yard up and keep the ground footing to a minimum of one inch.
Mist systems are used by some poultry keepers but my success rate is rather low with them. The birds don’t like them, plus the pooling of water beneath them creates humidity. Humidity in high temperatures is a deadly combination. Fans on the other hand are an excellent source of relief, either in the coop or yard – better yet, both.

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Picked On, Pecked On Chicks. Why and What To Do?

Let’s start at the beginning with chicks in the brooder. Chicks don’t just peck each other for lack of something to do. There is an underlying problem causing them stress and/or aggravation. As with any living creature, the first and foremost necessity for well-being is comfort.
Providing chick starter crumbles and fresh water is a given, so we can certainly rule out hunger as the stress factor. It is my opinion there are two other very important factors to consider. Living environment and lighting, with significant emphasis on the latter. Overcrowding may or may not be the culprit in their acquired pecking behavior. However, if ample space is not provided away from a bright light heat source, their comfort may be compromised.
Always provide more than one feeder so weaker birds are not bullied. Also, by week 3, keep them busy with offerings of green grass, especially when you witness aggression.
You may want to make the switch from a heat lamp and switch to radiant heat from a heat plate brooder. This will solve your fluctuating temperature problem, and providing you have a good number of chicks, it will be sufficient in keeping them warm.

Radiant Heat Plate by Brinsea

Note: If you feel they are too cold you can supplement with a low-wattage red heat lamp. Low-wattage heat bulbs are sold for reptiles, I usually use a 50, or 100, depending on how cold it is.
I’m convinced that happy and content chickens start in the brooder. It’s easy to tell if the brooder has comfort zones. You should see some birds huddled together under the heat source, some resting alone, some scratching in the litter, and some eating. Watch your chicks, their behavior says it all.

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A Nifty Thrifty Brooder

A Brooder Doesn’t Need To Be Fancy – Just Functional

On a Budget?

This brooder is nothing more than a cardboard box, 10ft long 3ft. wide, and 16′ high. If your box isn’t high enough you can easily attach additional cardboard to the sides using zip ties.
Duct tape and zip ties are my friend, be creative, you’ll be amazed at what you can build with what was once considered junk in the garage or shed.
I found some leftover ceramic floor tiles in the garage and used them to line the bottom of the brooder. The first week I use only paper towels on the bottom, then pine shavings around the second week.
I use a few bricks to build a platform in the center of the brooder where their feeder sets, and the same for the drinker in one corner of the brooder. Day-old chicks will have no problem accessing their food and water sources if both are raised, this limits feed waste and help keep the water clean.
Chicken wire simply laid over the top of the brooder will be sufficient in confining them. They have little interest in escaping but can spook easily when disturbed by basic brooder chores, so better safe than sorry.

Revised: Today we use radiant heat, a safer more natural source of heat.

The heat lamp is best situated at one end of the brooder, it’s important to have sufficient space for your chicks to find their comfort zone. It’s a good idea to have a thermometer at both ends of the brooder, but if you watch your chicks’ behavior it’s quite obvious when they are cold or hot.
When they’re cold they will all huddle together under the heat lamp, when hot they’ll lie down holding their wings away from their body. Somewhere in between is where you want to keep your babies, just watch them, and they’ll be quick to inform you of a problem.

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