TBN Ranch Chicken Keeping Resources

Breaking the Broody Hen

What Broody Means, and What to do When it’s a Problem

Definition of Broody: A hen with strong instincts to hatch eggs, whether or not they are fertile, or even present in the nest.
Signs: Your hen won’t leave the nest, appears to not be eating, her feathers are all fluffed up, and she looks a bit spread out. These are classic signs of the broody hen. First of all she isn’t starving, she is eating and drinking, but it’s low on her list of priorities. She may only eat just enough to survive. The fact that she isn’t sitting on eggs won’t make a difference to her, so don’t assume she’ll just give up in a day or two, she won’t. This behavior could last weeks, and during that time period she will not lay eggs.

Her behavior can be disrupting as well, she may not allow the other members of the flock near her nest, not only is that opening the door for drama, but the laying cycle of the entire flock can be disturbed. Make sure you have enough nest boxes for your flock.
What to Do
You can sometimes discourage the broody hen by moving her nest box, covering it, or to the less dedicated lady, simply take her from the nest a few times the first day. However, there are some with very strong instincts and you may actually have to change her environment completely by moving her to another place. This might take her mind off sitting on eggs and back to laying them.
Another trick that I use here at the ranch is getting air underneath the hen. The best way to do this might require a few changes to your nest area, but it’s well worth the effort. I don’t like keeping my birds on a wire grate in the nesting place, but I do have have a place with that option for the simple solution of breaking the behavior of the broody hen.
I have a piece of plywood covering the wire grate in their nest area, over that is a gracious amount of grass hay. When the occasional broody hen occupies the nest, I simply remove the plywood, by exposing the wire grate, the hen has air flow under her – which to her, is completely unacceptable.
Note: It’s important to act quickly when addressing the broody hen, the longer you allow it to continue, the longer you will have to wait before she starts laying eggs again.

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Unexplained Loss of Baby Chicks, Explained

One Common Cause of Death, and Why

At one time or another, you’ll inevitably lose one or more of your new baby chicks. Mail-order chicks or chicks kept in stressful conditions are most at risk. We usually blame it on one thing or another, but the most common reason is often overlooked… and can be avoided.
Once dehydration is ruled out, and the chick showed no other signs of trouble before it died, the problem is often caused by pasting up, which is just a fancy name for a poopy bum.
This is simply a condition where the baby chick’s poop gets stuck on the downy feathers outside their vent and prevents them from pooping. It’s often a fatal condition, so it’s very important to check all the chickie bums for at least the first two weeks of life.
Tending to Pasting Up
If there’s fecal matter stuck to the chick’s vent, use a warm wet cloth and soak it off. Sometimes if a chick has a chronic problem with pasting up it’s better to pull off the poop when it’s dry. This way it takes all the downy feathers with it, preventing another impaction.

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Preparing for Baby Chicks

A Detailed Check List of Everything You’ll Need

Before you bring home your baby chicks prepare an area to keep them. Maybe a garage, shed, or any place where the chicks are protected from inclement weather or drafts.
The Basics
A Brooder
This is simply a container worthy of containing the chicks for the first 4-6 weeks. The sides should be about 12 to 15 inches high, the taller the brooder is, the less likely you’re going to have a problem with chicks escaping when they become more active. Brooder Ideas
Thermometer
This is important to monitor the temperature in the brooder. Any outdoor type that is easy to read is sufficient.
Brooder Lamp (and something dependable to hang it from)
The hanging type will allow you better control of temperature. You’ll want the ease of lowering or raising the lamp for more or less heat. Most feed stores carry both brooder lamps and bulbs. Although the bulb color of choice by chicken keepers is a controversial one, I prefer and recommend the RED bulb.

*Today it is better advised to use Radiant Heat.

Feeder & Drinker
Choose both that are made for chicks, they are designed not only for their convenience but safety too.
Bedding
Shavings are usually the bedding of choice.
Feed
Most commonly called Chick Starter feed. They’re going to be on this food for the next 5-7 months or their point of lay, so don’t be afraid to buy a 50lb bag. It won’t be the last bag you buy!

The Extras to Make Caring for Your Chicks Easier…

Paper Towels
Many chicken keepers like to use paper towels for the bottom of the brooder for the first week or two. I don’t, and all is fine… your choice.
Medium Trash Can (2)
A convenient way to make cleaning less of a chore. Keep it handy by the brooder.
It’s nice to keep your feed in one too, bagged feed can be a big mess to clean up if it falls over.
Bucket
To dump out the drinker waste, rather than refilling the whole waterer ten times a day.
An extra small brooder box in case you have to isolate or doctor a chick.