My Hen Raises Adopted Baby Chicks For Me, Here’s How!

Raven, My Best Chicken Mama for Raising Hatch-a-Longs

Raven, 5 years old

Raven is a Silkie Bantam who has successfully raised baby chicks for me over the past five years. She’s never hatched eggs herself since I don’t keep a rooster. Instead, she raises what are called “hatch-a-longs.” This means two-day-old baby chicks are placed under her after she’s been sitting on a clutch of unfertilized eggs for at least 21 days. Many chicken keepers prefer to sneak babies under their hens at night, but I don’t. I take away Raven’s eggs during the day, place broken egg shells under her and tuck the baby chicks under her wing. Then make sure to see if she accepts them. Leaving them alone all night feels a bit risky to me, so I prefer to keep an eye on them throughout the day, though I’ll admit, I cheat and use a camera to watch them.
Once Raven has accepted her new babies as her own, I move them to an enclosure inside the coop where the rest of the flock can still see them. From that moment on, she takes over completely. She teaches them how to eat and drink, and after about two weeks, I open the door of their little safe house and let Mamma bring her babies out to meet the rest of the flock. I don’t rush it, the hen will decide to lead them out when the time is right.
Here is what my enclosure for the hen and babies looks like inside the coop, and a short video of the chicks among the flock at two weeks old.

Raven protects her babies fiercely and the other hens quickly learn to respect her and keep their distance, or risk being bullied, and that’s putting it mildly. When she has babies, Raven is unquestionably THE BOSS. She stays close to her babies for a couple months, though over time (about 4 months) the chicks naturally begin to distance themselves from her.
It’s important to know that not all Silkies, or any broody hens, for that matter, make good mothers. Just because a hen goes broody doesn’t necessarily mean she’ll dedicate herself to raising chicks. I have several Silkies, but only one, Raven, reliably raises hatch-a-longs. The others tend to go broody for a week or two and then abandon the nest altogether. Watch your girls, you will know which one is serious about staying on the nest full term, those are the hens most likely to accept babies. Since most of my Silkies are black and look nearly identical, I keep a leg band on Raven so I can easily tell which one to trust as a devoted mother.

Back to HOME PAGE

Why and How to Use Lime in Your Chicken Coop

Controlling Oder & Pests in the Coop

Taking care of a chicken coop means keeping it clean, safe, and smelling as fresh as possible. One way to do this is by using lime. Not only does it help with odor but it’s also an insect repellent. Lime also helps soak up moisture which can lead to bacteria & mold. A good rule of thumb is to reapply lime at least once a month.

First Saturday Lime

I use First Saturday Lime in my coop, you can learn more about this product and where to purchase it HERE.

Back to HOME PAGE

Practical Chicken Coop Bedding Choices

Bedding Choices to Keep your Coop Clean, and your Life Easier

Written by a real person!

When it comes to chicken coop bedding, new options and creative combinations are gaining popularity as chicken keepers look for better choices.
Hemp bedding is becoming especially popular. It’s highly absorbent, some sources say it can hold up to four times its own weight in moisture, and it naturally helps control odors better than shavings. It also breaks down easier when composting. However, consider the fact that Hemp is pricier and may be hard to source.
I don’t have any personal experience with Pelletized Bedding but I have heard of other chicken keepers using it and are happy with its performance. It’s often made from recycled paper or other natural materials. These pellets produce less dust, and can sometimes outperform traditional options when it comes to odor control. But in my opinion it sounds like it’s a product you are going to be replacing often… that means an expense and a chore you may not want.
The Deep Litter Method continues to be a favorite for its practicality and sustainability. Instead of frequent full clean-outs, fresh bedding layers are added over time while the old material decomposes in place. This system helps manage odor, generates warmth, and reduces labor. However, success depends on good ventilation, regular stirring or turning, and careful moisture control, otherwise, issues like ammonia, mold, and pests will most definitely become a problem. This method is most popular in colder climates.
Pine Shavings are probably the most popular product used in coops, but that doesn’t mean it’s the best choice. I won’t deny they’re soft, absorbent, help control odors, and smell wonderful. Not to mention they’re affordable, widely available, compost well, and a good choice for the deep litter method. But there is a downside, pine shavings are super dusty which can be a respiratory irritant to chickens as well as their keepers. They break down quickly, need regular refreshing, and when they get damp, trap bacteria and ammonia. Shavings need to be replaced often, a chore that is time consuming and messy. Which brings me to why I don’t use them, and what I highly recommend instead….

If you feel the need to mix or blend bedding materials, this is okay too. This is a great way to take advantage of the different individual strengths of various beddings. It makes good sense to adjust bedding seasonally, especially in winter. 
More info: Sand types / Sifting shovels

Back to HOME PAGE