Winterizing The Chicken House

Multi Purpose Insulation, keeping it simple and functional.

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5 Different Types of Chicken Coop Heaters

Content Contributor: The Happy Chicken Coop

Heating the coop has always been a source of endless discussion among chicken folk. Old timers will tell you that you don’t have to heat the coop. However, there are occasions when heat is appropriate. Read Article 5 Different Types of Chicken Coop Heaters & Our Favorite

Jasmine, Another Flock Bunny Story

Jasmine has been talked about here often, she is a wild bunny that joined our flock of chickens years ago. She is always in or around the barn, and most of the day, hangs out under a shade tree with our free roam hens. She very often has babies stashed in the holes and tunnels she digs in the barn.  She gathers chicken feathers for her nest and quite diligently tends to her young. And then… when they are old enough to meet the outside world, she moves them somewhere during the night.  Once in a great while I see her youngsters, but as a rule, she hides them.

Again, this morning Jasmine is looking for the proper place to make a new hole for her soon expecting babies. She never uses the same hole, which for obvious reasons I’m NOT a fan of. Nevertheless, it is what it is, and I just go along with bunny nature.

Yes Jasmine!  Under the brooder coop, that’s a great place for you to dig a hole, tunnel, and completely destroy. At least there I won’t likely step in it and further tweak my already tweaked back. Well, Jasmine didn’t think so, and went on to find a better spot. And this is where she picked…

Here? Really Jasmine? She decided the chicken coop is a great place to dig a hole for her baby nursery. Right smack in the middle of a 10×10 chicken coop. Ah yes, now there’s a perfect spot, perfect for me to step in and fall to China everyday.

There’s no discouraging Jasmine from a chosen spot, she’ll tunnel from Timbuktu to get where she wants to be.  Like I said, bunny nature, just go with it.  After all, a bunny mom knows best.

 

 

Coop or Free Roam?

Every good chicken keeper knows the importance of protecting their birds from predators. Most of us will, or already have lost birds to a coyote, hawk, fox, bobcat, etc, etc. It’s devastating to see the after mass, I know, it’s happened here, I lost seven birds after a coyote attack in 2016. That changed everything I loved most about keeping chickens.

Since the attack, my birds have been completely safe after building them a 10×10 predator proof enclosure. Unfortunately, that means their happy life of free roaming our acreage came to a screeching halt. To me, it meant never enjoying my birds out and about, it was now just a chore for their well being. Chickens live for the opportunity to scratch in the dirt and look for bugs, sunbathe in the morning sun, or finding that perfect spot for a dust bath. Since confinement, I’ve noticed the overall health of my flock has not quite been what it was.

The heat plays havoc on confined chickens in the desert southwest, heat stroke is real, and it’s deadly.  Free roam flocks have a much higher rate of survival, and are quite resourceful in finding shade and cooler ground to burrow in.  So this brings me to a dilemma, coop for safety from a predator, or free roam for quality of life and comfort from the extreme heat?

Quality of Life
Today I opened the gate and gave my flock the opportunity to live a happy life. After considering the risk, I decided being cooped up in 110+ would have the same outcome as a predator attack… both could mean a death sentence. I will do my part to protect them every way I can. They will be confined from dusk to late morning, but during the hottest part of the day they will be free to find comfort.
Here’s some of the girls who found a comfy place in the feed room… where there’s a giant oscillating fan and mist system. 🙂

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Raising Baby Chicks the First Seven Weeks

Everything you Need to Know, Step by Step

Research, Plan, and Prepare
Raising chicks can be easy if you just do your homework before you buy. Knowing when to plan for your chick’s arrival is also something to take into consideration. Of course it makes good sense to have your coop set up and supplies ahead of time. But it would also be helpful to be informed of what’s new in today’s chicken keeping market. For example, the use of radiant heat instead of heat lamps, or all the new ideas for drinkers and feeders that are designed to save you time and money.

Silkie chicks 10 8 14

Before you bring home chicks you’ll need a brooder to raise them in for the next 5-7 weeks. Need help choosing the best type? No problem, here’s a ton of ideas, Brooder Box Ideas.  While your chicks are in the brooder, you’ll have plenty of time to get their coop ready. Whether a DIY project or not, every coop size and style imaginal can be found HERE.

Research, have a plan, be prepared, and know what to expect, these four things will help ease your commitment so there’s more time to enjoy your birds.

It’ll be helpful to have some understanding of Basic Chicken Terminology, this reference article will help you through the maze of chicken lingo. Spring is on the way, so let’s get get started!

Caring for Chicks
The enclosure that will house your chicks for the next 5-7 weeks is called a brooder. It can be anything from a cardboard box to something more extravagant as shown in the pics below. It doesn’t need to be fancy, but it definitely needs to be convenient for you to manage, and be comfortable for your chicks. See more brooder pics.

The First Two Weeks
If you are raising bantams, day old, or mail order chicks who may be weak from their long journey, line the brooder box with paper towels for the first week. Use a drinker & feeder designed specifically for chicks and place it directly on the paper towels. Your chick’s feed is readily available at all feed stores, ask for chick starter. The bag will say chick starter, or chick starter/grower, they’re one and the same. You have one other feed detail to decide upon, medicated or non-medicated. Personally, if my chicks are mail order, I feed medicated for the first week, if bought from a feed store, I feed non-medicated.

Sometimes, baby chicks act lethargic or weak from either a long trip or other stressful conditions. In this case, you may want to give them a little electrolyte boost for two or three days. Simply add Sav-a-chick electrolytes and vitamin supplement to their water source. It’s available anywhere chicks are sold, also on Amazon.

If you bought your chicks from a feed store, they’re probably a few days to a week old, and most likely accustomed to pine shavings for their bedding. It’s okay to continue using pine shavings at this point. This will help keep the brooder smelling fresh, changing it every day is good practice.

Pine Shavings

Your chicks will need enough space to move freely, and after the second week will need the box covered with chicken wire.
One half of the brooder shouldn’t have a heat source at all. The other, preferably radiant heat from a Brinsea Brooder or equivalent, which will be further explained later in this article.
Watch for poopy or pasty butts! This is a common problem usually bought on by stress, or uncomfortable living conditions during the first two weeks. Using a wet paper towel, or baby wipes, clean those fuzzy butts, because this condition hinders fecal elimination… which is often fatal.
As your chicks become more active, keeping the food & drink sources clean is challenging, so here’s a few tips. Raise the drinker to the height of the smallest chick’s back, this will minimize the litter from landing in their water. Use bricks, 2×4 pieces, flower pot saucers, even a bowl upside down will do the trick.
Tip: Set their feeder in something that will catch the feed they scratch out, this will substantially minimize feed waste. Be creative, use a flower pot saucer, a pie tin, etc.

Temperature Control in the Brooder | Radiant Heat vs Heat Lamps

Brinsea 2

Keeping the temperature right can be a chore, especially if you depend on a heat lamp. You’ll spend a good deal of time raising and lowering it during the day as temperatures change, which is exactly why I rarely use them.  I never raise chicks indoors, they’re always kept in a shed or garage during a time when overnight temperatures seldom drop below 55-60. Heat lamps have their place, but I only use them if a cold spell occurs before my chicks reach a month old.  My primary heat source is radiant heat. It doesn’t heat up the brooder, it only provides warmth when the chicks settle underneath it. Your chicks will be happiest if they can actually touch the surface, so keep the unit nice and low, you can easily raise it as they grow. Radiant heat is certainly more natural, chicks have been settling under their mothers in cool climates to keep warm since somewhere around 6000BC!

Radiant heat is a sufficient heat source for chicks if the ambient temperature is at least 55 degrees. Again, this is why seasonal planning for your chick arrival is important.
Keep a thermometer inside the box to monitor the temperature, but watching the chicks behavior is the best indication of their comfort. Rule of thumb: If they’re huddled together, they’re cold. If some are eating or drinking, others sleeping, and the rest under radiant heat, you have happy chicks. There’s no worry about your chicks finding the radiant heat, place them under it when you bring them home and they will return to their comfort zone all on their own.
Note: Important Fact about Radiant Heat: The thermometer in the brooder should read at least 55 degrees. You won’t feel heat when placing your hand under the radiant heat unit unless you touch the plate. Remember, radiant heat doesn’t heat the brooder at all, only the chicks when they are under it… so try not to stress over what seems cold to you.

What if There’s a Cold Spell?

If it’s necessary to use a heat lamp on a chilly night, avoid placing it directly over the chicks when radiant heat is available to them.  A heat lamp near the coop to keep the ambient temp around 55 degrees works well.

Note: Heat lamps for chicks in feed stores are almost always only available in 250 watts. That is a lot of heat! You already have a heat source, so there’s no need to blast them with 250 watt heat lamp. There’s an easy fix to that, 50, 75, and 100 watt heat bulbs are easily found on Amazon, choose a wattage that will keep the ambient temp at or around 55 degrees. You can often find lower wattage heat bulbs at pet stores in reptile supplies.

Always use a red bulb, the light from the clear bulb are too bright and the chicks may become agitated, which inevitably leads to the unwanted problem of chicks pecking each other.

Keeping Chicks Indoors?
There is no need for a heat lamp at all if you use radiant heat. They will be much happier with natural lighting and far less likely to have pasty butts, which often is the culprit of chick fatality. But, there are drawbacks to raising chicks indoors, I wont tell you not to, but here’s three reasons why I don’t.
First, when chicks are ready to be moved to the coop they’ll need to acclimate to harsher weather conditions and fluctuating temperatures. Second, by the time they are three weeks old, well… they’ll stink, to put it bluntly. Trust me, You’ll be cleaning their brooder box constantly and wishing they were anywhere but your living space.  They will also be very active in what has probably become very cramped quarters at about three weeks old. And Third, chicks mature slower.
The rule of thumb is keep chicks in a controlled temperature until they are fully feathered, which is about 6-7 weeks. Chicks raised in cooler temperatures with a moderate heat source are often fully feathered by 5 weeks.
To sum it all up…  plan to buy chicks when they’ll be comfortable in a garage or outdoor shed using primarily radiant heat. This will depend on where you live, for most folks it’s springtime. Others, like the lower desert southwest, mid February and late fall is ideal.

Three to Six Weeks
Three weeks is a good time to introduce a perch for your chicks. A tree branch or one inch dowel rod will be sufficient. They’ll be reluctant to explore this strange new object, but in a day or two their curiosity will definitely get the best of them. Learning to perch now aids in their transition to roost as adults. Why is this important? It’s good practice to keep nest boxes clean for obvious reasons… and hens sleeping where they lay is anything but. In every coop a roosting bar should be provided, it is instinctual for birds to roost elevated, so this won’t be a difficult task to accomplish. There are however exceptions to the rule of roosting. Silkie Bantams are often reluctant to venture  any higher than 3 feet… if at all.

Three weeks is also the perfect time to introduce a little grass for them to enjoy, but there are three rules. 1. No long pieces, 2. not to much, and 3, have grit available in the brooder to help them digest this strange new food. Grass is a good distraction to an array of possible problems in the brooder as well, such as pecking each other, or bullying. It keeps them busy! Just keep in mind, problems always occur for a reason. Most commonly, overcrowding, bright lights, or undesirable temperatures.

Moving Day, Brooder to Coop
When your chicks are fully feathered (5-7 weeks) they are ready to leave the brooder and be moved to the coop. It should be well ventilated, be spacious enough to include a roost bar, have shelter from wind, rain, inclement weather, and protection from the sun. Provide at least one nest box for every two birds. Two square feet of ground space per bird would be adequate, but the more space you give your flock the better. Crowding is the perfect recipe for bullying when establishing early and continual pecking orders.
Feed and water should be elevated to the height of the smallest bird’s back, this will help keep their food and water clean. You can either hang them, or simply find something stationary such as bricks, or a cinder block.
Note: Some chicken keepers prefer to move their chicks to a grow-out pen before the coop. This is just a smaller coop where they’re housed until bigger. Grow-out pens are especially important if you have an existing flock, where a whole new set of rules applies for introductions.

Diet / The First Egg
At point of lay, (5-6 months) your birds are ready for a change in their diet. This is the perfect time to switch from chick starter/grower, to layer pellets. You can expect the first egg from your pullets anytime now.

Don’t Forget to Protect your Flock from Predators!

Don’t think for a minute that your flock is immune to a predator attack. There’s no place on the planet where chickens are safe from predators…. not even in your suburban backyard. And guess what, not in your coop either, unless you’ve made every effort to predator proof every nook and cranny. That means, no animal will be able to dig under the coop, or get in over the top. It means there are no gaps around doors and windows, and the coop door has a secure latch to keep them safe at night.

 

 

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