Home

Composting Manure

There are various reasons; of course, the obvious is fertilizer for your lawn and garden. But unless you have a farm or huge property composting isn’t much good unless you have a source for its usefulness.
Even with only a few horses I can’t possibly decompose all of the manure in a timely fashion. Especially being a small ranch within the city limits, piling it sky high is unmentionable, so I have most of it hauled off the ranch every week. However, my reason for composting has little to do with fertilizer and everything to do with replacing dirt! That might sound strange to some, but dirt is quite precious here in the desert, and by no means comes cheap to buy.
It’s almost impossible to clean horse pens twice a day and not have valuable footing dirt get shoveled out with the manure. Same with the chicken yards, they get stripped down to nothing but hard ground every few weeks. By composting horse manure I can replace valuable dirt in my pens and chicken yards. I use it to fill holes, as potting soil, and twice a year to fertilize my yard and trees.
If you’re wondering, after a compost pile is decomposed, it is nothing but beautiful clean dirt with the pleasant aroma of, well…. earth!
Below are the basics to starting a compost pile. There are many compost bins available on the market, but they are going to give you quite a workout. They are difficult to turn and depending on what your composting for, may not be of adequate size. Keep it simple, one thing I doubt you need is another chore.
Building the Pile:
The initial size of the pile should be no less than three feet high and at least five feet square. This will provide high enough composting temperatures to kill parasites, weed seeds, and bacteria.
Airflow:
Keeping air in the pile is critical to achieve proper temperature and preventing odors. Also, this will aid in the process of composting in a relatively shorter time. Turning the pile is imperative, especially during the first few weeks. The more you turn the pile the faster it will decompose.
Temperature:
It’s normal for temperatures to vary. Most compost piles start at lower temperatures then increase, and then gradually drop over several weeks. The pile should reach 135 to 150 degrees for several days, this is important not only to kill weed seeds and disease but to speed up the rate of decomposition. If the pile temperature exceeds 150 degrees you may want to reduce the size of your pile. You can buy a compost thermometer at your local nursery to best monitor temperatures.
Moisture:
Keep your compost pile damp, not soggy. You may have to cover it during rainy spells or add water to maintain the proper moisture. If the pile lacks moisture, composting organisms will dry out and prevent the pile from heating up. If the pile is too wet it will restrict airspace and cause compaction, also a factor in the pile’s inability to produce heat. If the compost becomes too wet increase the turning frequency.
Location:
Choose a convenient location, with access to a hose. Select level ground with good drainage.
What’s in the Compost Pile:
Organisms need carbon for energy and nitrogen for growth. High-carbon materials are plant materials such as straws, shavings, sawdust, leaves, and wood chips.  Materials high in nitrogen are animal by-products like manure, but also grass clippings, and hay. The best carbon/nitrogen ratio is nitrogen, 25:1, and carbon, 30:1. Too much bedding such as shavings will raise the carbon and you may have to add grass clippings or chicken manure. Without the proper carbon/nitrogen ratio the compost pile will take longer to decompose.
Time Frame of Completion:
A well-managed pile can be composted in about two months in the summer, and three to six months in the winter.
Tools:
A four or five-tined pitchfork for turning, a garden hose, and a compost thermometer. You can also insert a metal pole into the pile, as a heat indicator of activity.
A Partial List of What You Can Put in Your Compost Pile:
Hay
Coffee grounds
Leaves
Crushed egg shells
Feathers
Fruit
Fruit peels and rinds
Peanut shells
Garden debris
Straw
Grass clippings
Vegetable scraps
Grass clippings, fresh
Tea grounds and leaves
Lettuce
*Never put meat or fatty food in your compost pile.

Back to Chicken Keeping Resources HOME PAGE

 

Better Than a Chicken Coop

Vinyl Shed with a Floor, Windows and Doors, Costco

It’s easy to find a suitable chicken coop, but for the money, they always seem too small. If you do find one that’s roomy enough, the price can be pretty expensive. But you can be creative, how about a shed?

This shed from Costco is ideal, if you build a shelf on three sides about halfway up for nest boxes you have created the perfect set-up. There’s ample space for feeders and a water source, so you have less to worry about in inclement weather.  This shed provides a safe haven from predators when you close it up at night, and there’s no need to worry about ventilation because it has windows. You will, however, need to cover them with hardware cloth to protect your birds from predators.
If you’re worried about how they hold up, don’t.  Folks have been using them as tack rooms on ranches for years here in Phoenix. They’re pretty tough considering they bake out in the sun where temperatures reach 115+ degrees.
Another point to consider is this shed will be far more useful over the years, a chicken coop is what it is – and probably not for very long.  So what are you waiting for?  Attach a covered run to this shed and you’re in business! Last I checked this shed was about $750.

Back to Chicken Keeping Resources HOME PAGE

 

 

Good Egg…or Bad?

Ever wonder if the eggs you’re buying are fresh? Here’s how to tell.

At the large end of the egg, there is an air pocket about 1/8 deep and approximately as large around as a dime. As an egg ages, it loses both moisture and carbon dioxide causing the egg to shrink and the size of the air space to increase.  By placing an egg in water the size of that airspace determines the buoyancy of the egg – and its freshness.
When you submerge a fresh egg in water it will rest on the bottom.
An egg that is about a week old will bob slightly on the bottom.
At about three weeks old it will balance on its small end, with the large end straight up.
A bad egg will float.

Back to Chicken Keeping Resources HOME PAGE