Category: Managing the Flock

Tips on Managing Rats in the Coop

Problem Solving & Solutions

Rats are attracted to food, so the first thing to address is keeping their access to food at a minimum. Don’t leave food in the coop over night, or switch to a feeder that can be closed at night, there are many types to chose from. Feeder Types
Like all walks of life, rats need water. Switching to Nipple Drinkers rather than traditional drinkers may be helpful. Not to mention nipple drinkers are healthier since rats carry numerous diseases that can be spread through traditional drinkers.
The Exception to the Rule: If you live where temperatures exceed 110 like here in Phoenix, nipple feeders are not recommended. Hydration is imperative, and chickens will drink more if water is kept cooler from a large-capacity drinker.
Clean up spilled feed daily, be creative, put something under the feeder to catch dropped feed so it’s easy to clean up.
Make sure there are no eggs in the nest boxes overnight. Rats love to find eggs, so don’t invite them for a late night snack.
Switch to layer pellets rather than crumbles, it’s less messy and easier to clean up what gets dropped or scratched out of the feeder.
Keep all your feed and supplements in a metal trash can. Use a bungee cord to hold the lid down tight. Don’t use anything plastic, rats will chew through it like it’s made of paper.
Replace any chicken wire on your coop with hardware cloth.
Bury hardware cloth at least a foot all around the coop to detour rats from digging into the coop.
Place flagstone or bury hardware cloth around the entire perimeter of the coop to help prevent digging.
Patch all holes or crevasses in the coop.

Hardware Cloth

What About Repellants?

Do they work? The simple answer is not really. Mint, peppermint, essential oils, etc., all have little effect on detouring rats. Some essential oils are toxic to chickens so I would advise you to avoid them completely. Of course, I hope I don’t even have to say that rat poison is totally out of the question for obvious reasons.

So What Does Work? A Natural Predator!

There are lots of shelter cats looking for a job! Adopt

The predatory behavior in cats can be quite effective in controlling a mice & rat problem. They are natural hunters and have an instinctual drive to chase and catch small animals.

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Oyster Shells vs Crushed Egg Shells

The Better Choice Explained

Both oyster shells and egg shells can serve as valuable calcium supplements for chickens, but there are a few reasons why oyster shells are considered a better option. They are more easily digestible for chickens than eggshells. Oyster shells have a porous structure that allows for better breakdown, eggshells are denser and can be more challenging for chickens to break down effectively.
First, let’s understand why you may want to supplement with oyster shells. The purpose of this as a supplement is for the quality of your flock’s eggs. The high calcium content and digestibility of oyster shells contribute to better shell quality in chicken eggs, reducing the chances of shell breakage or deformities.


Calcium Content of Oyster Shells
Oyster shells generally contain a higher amount of calcium compared to egg shells. Calcium is a crucial nutrient for chickens as it helps in the formation of strong eggshells, supports skeletal health, and aids in proper muscle and nerve function.
Slow Release
Oyster shells release calcium slowly into the chicken’s system, allowing for better absorption and utilization. On the other hand, egg shells may break down more quickly, potentially resulting in a sudden influx of calcium that the chicken’s body cannot fully absorb.
Digestibility
Oyster shells are more easily digested by chickens due to their structure and composition. They contain a form of calcium carbonate that is readily absorbed by the chicken’s digestive system. Egg shells, although also composed of calcium carbonate, have a slightly different structure and may be less efficiently broken down and utilized by chickens.

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What is a Proper Roost for Chickens?

What Should a Roost Be Made Of, How High, and What Size?

This can be a complicated question because the answer somewhat varies. Although most articles you’ll read will say 8 inches per bird, this in my opinion is an argument waiting to happen. When it comes to chickens, space means everything. Bigger is better to keep peace among a flock. If the roost is too small the birds lowest in the pecking order will be bullied.
It’s best to avoid plastic and metal roosts, plastic is slippery, and metal can be either too cold or too hot, depending on the climate where you live.
Wooden 2×2 roosts are the favorite, the flat surface allows chickens to roost comfortably and also allows them to cover their feet in cold weather. Round roosts make keeping their feet warm difficult. You can use 2×4 roosts too, but keep in mind that’s a bigger surface and may be harder to keep clean.
The roost should be long enough to accommodate all the chickens in the flock. Ideally, each chicken should have at least 10 – 12 inches of roosting space.
The roosting bars should be higher than the nest boxes, at least 3 feet high, but some higher would be preferred with a ladder or ramp to access. This also helps prevent injuries from your birds jumping down from a high roost. Harmony among the flock keeps everybody happy, so having more than one roost is recommended.

Need Some Help Choosing a Roost?
Here Are Over 50 Different Types and Creative Ideas To View

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