About the Standard Cochin Chicken

The Gentle Giants

Cochin chickens are known for their soft feathers and fluffy robust appearance. They have a round body, long silky plumage, feathered feet, and a single comb. They lay a fair number of brown or tinted small to medium eggs. You can expect approximately 2 eggs per week.

This breed may not be a prolific layer, but are still quite worthy for their broody tendencies, and their stunning appearance of course! They’re often used to hatch fertile eggs from other birds, however, don’t be in a big hurry, the Cochin is very slow to mature.

If your looking for a docile, peaceful, friendly, and easily handled breed, this buxom beauty is for you.

I find Cochins don’t fancy scratching around in the dirt as much as most other breeds. They are also not a fan of high perches. They prefer free roam, but confine quite well.

They’re considered a heavy breed weighing in at about 11 lbs for roosters, and 8 to 8.5 lbs. for hens.
Bantams: A hen will be just under 2 lbs. and the rooster, about 2 lbs.

The Cochin chicken breed arrived on the shores of Britain and America from the port of Shanghai, China in the mid 1800s.  This fancy breed has a wide variety of colorful outfits, in buff, white, black, blue, partridge and cuckoo.



Post Coyote Attack… Five New Chicks

I managed to find Silkies locally on Friday, slim pickin’s to say the least, nevertheless, I’m happy to have found a few to help erase the painful reminder of Monday’s fatal coyote attack. Straight run, and not my choice of color, but it’s a start. Three white chicks and two buff, hopefully one white is a rooster. In October I will find quality black chicks, and a couple of blues.

Silkie Chicks 3716

Of course now that I haven’t any Silkie pullets or started chicks for sale this Spring, I’m getting emails like crazy from those looking to buy.  Isn’t that always the way? lol

It’s nice to have chicks in the brooder, but this isn’t the ideal time to start chicks in my opinion. I’m taking a chance with the weather, hoping it stays moderate for a few more weeks. By the time these chicks are old enough to be moved to the coop it could be in the upper 90’s… or higher. I prefer to start chicks in October or November so at 6-8 weeks they are strong enough to tolerate our June temperatures of 115 degrees.

Coop Remodeling in Progress

All the coops are currently undergoing major modifications to prevent any more predator attacks. All the grow pens are having floors installed and raised 18″ off the ground. The hen’s coop will have heavy rubber stall mats on the ground, extending beyond the coop’s perimeters. The brooder building is already completely secure, and with all this work to be done, I’ll take that blessing!


Chicks and Heat Lamps | Red or Clear?

When a brooder lamp is necessary to keep your  baby chicks warm, it shouldn’t be a blast of blinding light from a clear bulb.

If your chicks are in a small brooder, they’ll most likely become agitated if unable to escape from an annoying light. Uncomfortable living conditions can lead to pecking each other, a problem that you definitely want to avoid.

I’m not at all a fan of the clear white bulbs and switched a long time ago to red. They provide a calming environment, and as a bonus, any minor pecking that’s caused an injury is better disguised under a red lamp.

Most feed stores only carry 250 watt heat lamps, but if you’re finding the brooder too hot, there are lower wattage bulbs available. You can often find 50 and 100 watt heat bulbs in the reptile section of pet stores, or online. You may also want to research using a radiant heat brooder instead of a heat lamp.

Does your Brooder Have Comfort Zones?

It’s easy to tell, you should see some birds huddled together under the heat source, some resting alone, some scratching in the litter, and some eating.