Tag: coop

Tips on Managing Rats in the Coop

Problem Solving & Solutions

Rats are attracted to food, so the first thing to address is keeping their access to food at a minimum. Don’t leave food in the coop over night, or switch to a feeder that can be closed at night, there are many types to chose from. Feeder Types
Like all walks of life, rats need water. Switching to Nipple Drinkers rather than traditional drinkers may be helpful. Not to mention nipple drinkers are healthier since rats carry numerous diseases that can be spread through traditional drinkers.
The Exception to the Rule: If you live where temperatures exceed 110 like here in Phoenix, nipple feeders are not recommended. Hydration is imperative, and chickens will drink more if water is kept cooler from a large-capacity drinker.
Clean up spilled feed daily, be creative, put something under the feeder to catch dropped feed so it’s easy to clean up.
Make sure there are no eggs in the nest boxes overnight. Rats love to find eggs, so don’t invite them for a late night snack.
Switch to layer pellets rather than crumbles, it’s less messy and easier to clean up what gets dropped or scratched out of the feeder.
Keep all your feed and supplements in a metal trash can. Use a bungee cord to hold the lid down tight. Don’t use anything plastic, rats will chew through it like it’s made of paper.
Replace any chicken wire on your coop with hardware cloth.
Bury hardware cloth at least a foot all around the coop to detour rats from digging into the coop.
Place flagstone or bury hardware cloth around the entire perimeter of the coop to help prevent digging.
Patch all holes or crevasses in the coop.

Hardware Cloth

What About Repellants?

Do they work? The simple answer is not really. Mint, peppermint, essential oils, etc., all have little effect on detouring rats. Some essential oils are toxic to chickens so I would advise you to avoid them completely. Of course, I hope I don’t even have to say that rat poison is totally out of the question for obvious reasons.

So What Does Work? A Natural Predator!

There are lots of shelter cats looking for a job! Adopt

The predatory behavior in cats can be quite effective in controlling a mice & rat problem. They are natural hunters and have an instinctual drive to chase and catch small animals.

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Time For a Chicken Coop Upgrade

Big Changes at TBN Ranch

It’s been a long time coming, after numerous predator attacks, and no way to keep my coop comfortable in Phoenix’s ridiculous heat, I’m finally doing something about it. I’m digging deep into my pockets and considering these two options. Option #1 is to have my covered corrals enclosed by a local company that specializes in custom enclosures. It will be done with wood framing and hardware cloth and have two entry doors. Or, option #2, building an entirely new coop by a local custom builder. The builders are coming in mid-June to discuss these options.
I’m open to their suggestions, but I’m leaning towards enclosing my corrals because of our summer monsoon storms. It was built in 2013 and I know it can withstand winds that exceed 70 MPH and stays dry in heavy rain.

Option#1: Enclosing Existing Corrals
Option #2: A New Coop Build (adding large wired windows)
This is what I want to enclose for my chickens.
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When To Move Baby Chicks From The Brooder To Coop

  • What Age Is a Chick Fully Feathered & What Does That Mean?
  • Ideal Outdoor Temperature For Fully Feathered Chicks

The timing for moving chicks from a brooder to a coop depends on several factors. In general, chicks can be moved from the brooder to the coop when they are fully feathered, usually around 6-8 weeks of age. However, if you’re raising chicks in winter, they may need a heat source much longer, and in summer they may only need a heat source for a few weeks. You can determine the chicks’ comfort zone by their behavior. If the chicks are huddled together it’s most likely they’re cold. If some are eating, others active, and a few are resting, that’s a good indication they are quite comfortable.

What Does Fully Feathered Mean?

A fully feathered chick means its downy fluff has been replaced with real feathers. This usually occurs around 6-7 weeks of age, but not all breeds get their feathers at the same time. It’s better to observe the feathering process rather than the age of e bird. As a guideline, and in my opinion, when moving fully feathered chicks from the brooder to the coop, the ideal temperature would be around 65 -70 degrees. To achieve ideal climate conditions, the best time to start chicks is in Spring.

Fluffy down, feathers starting to appear
Fully feathered

Adjusting Temperature Control in the Brooder

An important reason for having temperature control on the brooder is that it not only keeps baby chicks warm but also to prepare them for cooler temperatures as they grow. Each week the temperature in the brooder should be lowered by 5 degrees. The rule of thumb is as follows:
Week 1: 95 degrees
Week 2: 90 degrees
Week 3: 85 degrees
Week 4: 80 degrees
Week 5: 75 degrees
Week 6: 70 degrees
Week 7: 65 degrees

If your birds are ready to be moved to their coop, happy moving day!

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