The Marans originated in Marans, France, and were imported into the United Kingdom in the 1930s.
The hens lay on average around 150–210 dark brown eggs per year. Marans are considered a dual-purpose bird, meaning they’re appreciated for their eggs and table qualities.
Recognized Colors: White, Wheaten, Black Copper.
Not recognized: Birchen, Blue, Salmon, Blue Silver Salmon, Silver Cuckoo, and Golden Cuckoo.
Egg Laying Facts
Expect an average of 3-4 eggs per week.
Color: Dark brown/or chocolate
Class: Continental (French)
Size: Heavy, 7-8 pounds
Type: Large Fowl & Bantam
Comb Type: Single
Number of Toes: 4
Feathered Legs: In the United States, mostly no
The Marans are cold hardy birds, but not especially heat tolerant.
Broody: Yes / Average
Personality: Varies, however, generally docile, very active.
Interesting Fact: Cuckoo Marans hens can be mated with an unbarred cock to produce sex-linked hybrid offspring.
When you Need Real Help, Here’s the Article!
Warning: Don’t read if you’re into all that natural stuff.
Natural remedies just don’t cut it in many cases, tried them all and found them to be only minimally successful. If you have a real problem sometimes you just have to get out the big guns so to speak and use what works… drugs, chemicals, and whatever, as far as I’m concerned. I want fast, effective, and what’s readily available at most feed stores and/or online. Problem is how to use these products, because as you may already know, there’s not much information on dosages for chickens. It’s pretty much a guessing game. Also, good luck finding a veterinarian who knows.. or even has a slight clue about treating chickens. So, we do what we can to help our flocks, then we share information that may be helpful to other chicken keepers. Here’s my story to share…
MAJOR Feather Loss and the Use of Ivermectin
I spent two days looking for help on the dosage for Ivermectin to treat my flock for some sort of mite, internal parasite, or whatever, didn’t know. Topical applications weren’t working and natural treatments were a giant waste of time. In my opinion, this meant Ivermectin would be the best choice for treatment. Not surprised to find there was nothing on the label for treating chickens, only livestock. Finally, I just took the word of a chicken keeper who was quite convincing that 4cc’s of injectable (not pour on) Ivermectin to a gallon of drinking water for 2 days would do the trick. Then, repeat treatment in 14 days. I followed her instructions to clean the coop thoroughly and then confine the birds with the treated water. I sprayed the coop first with Pyrethrin according to the label dilution for treating mites. Nasty stuff, but sorry folks, sometimes that’s what it takes.
Well, it worked. Nobody died, and I saw improvement over the next 3 days. Injectable Ivermectin (not pour on) is sold at Tractor Supply. Costs about $30. but it will keep a long time.
I’m not a vet, just saying it worked for me when I was desperate to find a solution to my flocks problem. How long to withdraw from eating eggs? Don’t really know, but I will be throwing away eggs until treatment is over, and then wait another 30-45 days at least before consuming eggs.