Tag: Radiant Heat

No Heat Required: Keeping Chickens Safe and Comfortable in Winter

Chickens Are Built for the Cold, But Proper Shelter is Key

As temperatures drop, it’s common for chicken keepers to wonder whether they should add heat to the coop. In most situations, the answer is no. Healthy adult chickens are surprisingly cold-hardy and don’t need supplemental heat to get through winter. Their feathers provide excellent insulation, and they stay warm by fluffing up and roosting together. When we add heat, we prevent chickens from fully acclimating to cold weather, which can make them more vulnerable if the power goes out or the heat source suddenly fails.
The Danger of Heating a Coop
Safety is another big reason to skip added heat. Traditional heat lamps and space heaters are one of the leading causes of coop fires. With bedding, dust, feathers, and curious birds, the risk of accidents is real, and most coop fires happen at night. Even without a fire, heated coops can cause problems. Sudden temperature swings, like stepping from a warm coop into freezing air, increase the risk of frostbite and respiratory illness.
Radiant Heat Panels: Safer, But Still Usually Unnecessary
Radiant heat panels are often marketed as a safer option, and compared to hanging heat lamps, they can be lower risk. They don’t have exposed bulbs and provide gentle warmth instead of heating the entire coop. In special situations, such as caring for chicks, injured birds, or ill chickens, radiant heat can be helpful as a temporary, medical support tool. For most healthy adult flocks, however, they aren’t needed. They still rely on electricity, can fail unexpectedly, and may prevent chickens from fully adapting to winter temperatures.
What Really Matters is Ventilation
What matters far more than adding heat is a coop that’s dry, draft-free, and well ventilated. Cold air by itself isn’t the enemy, moisture is. Without proper ventilation, moisture from breathing and droppings builds up overnight, leading to frostbite, ammonia odor, and respiratory problems. The goal is to block direct drafts at roost level while allowing airflow above the birds’ heads, keeping bedding clean and dry all winter long.
Focus on good coop design, proper airflow, and overall flock health, and your chickens will come through winter just fine without added heat.

Cold Doesn’t Kill Chickens, But This Definitely Will

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Radiant Heat Chick Brooders

Chicks Stay Warm and Cozy
Why is Radiant Heat A Better Choice?

Radiant heat eases the burden and constant concern over the proper brooder temperature. Uses only 15 watts of energy versus up to 250 watts used by a heat lamp. A resourceful and safer alternative to a heat lamp, and less fire risk.
With radiant heat, your chicks stay warm from direct contact with the heated underside of the plate. It’s not hot, it’s just right. 🙂
Adjustable and Available in Different Sizes
Easily accommodates the size of your growing chicks with 25 adjustable height settings ranging from 1”-7” and can be customized to fit your flock’s needs.
Affordable price, around $60 for the smallest one. Available on Amazon.
I’ve bought from this company and have been very happy with their products.

Other Brands

Brinsea

This is the brooder I’m using, been working great for years.
Brooder for warming up to 35 newly hatched chicks. Safe 12 volt radiant-heated underside for producing uniform temperature. Price: Around $80. Available in Amazon

Rural 365 Brooder

Perfect for 10 to 20 newly hatched chicks. Adjust leg height so chicks can stand and have direct contact with the bottom of the chick brooder plate.
Price: Around $60.
Available on Amazon.

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Chicks Arriving Tomorrow, This is our Brooder Set-up

Brooder Shed is Ready to Go

Here are a few pics of my set-up where the chicks will live for the next 5 to 7 weeks. Depending on their growth, the weather, and most importantly, when they are mostly feathered. Usually, they are feathered for sure by 8 weeks, but usually, the temperatures in Phoenix allow us to move them from the brooder to coop earlier. What kind of chicks? Guess you’ll have to wait and see!
The Brooder Set-up
My husband built this custom brooder complete with electric and self-closing doors on top. The floor in the brooder is lined with textured linoleum tiles and the windows are plexiglass.  There are plenty of storage cabinets below for all those chick-rearing necessities.
I use radiant heat but have two 50-watt backup heat lamps overhead just in case of a sudden drop in outside temp. I also have a temperature reading from the brooder to the house, so I don’t have to wonder if they are too cold or hot.

The Brooder Shed below is 8×10, heavily insulated, then drywall, and I had the gruesome chore of painting the inside pale yellow, ( I hate painting.) There is power, but no plumbing. Fortunately, the hose is only steps away.

I’ll be picking up the chicks across town, I found this handy cage at Goodwill for $1.99, can’t beat that! It will comfortably hold at least 18 chicks. They like to be transported tightly packed together, it helps keep them warm and feeling safe.

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