Tag: pullet

My Successful Introduction of a New Pullet

The Step-by-Step Process of Introducing a New Chicken to an Existing Semi-Confined Flock

Anybody who raises chickens knows the drama of adding a new bird… and that’s where I am now.  My Silkie chicks have been in plain sight of an established flock since they were 7 weeks old. Does that mean they’ll all get along? Heck no!
I ended up selling all the Silkie pullets but one, Randi, a pretty little buff, now five months old… and ready to join the flock. Two weeks ago I opened her coop door allowing her freedom to join my hens. But as expected, normal behavior is to stay where it’s safe.

Randi 2-23-15

Little Randi dared to venture outside her coop a little more each day. For another few days, she stayed close to her own coop and food source. When the big bad hens got too close she’d make a mad dash to the safety of her home sweet home.
Yesterday I noticed Randi was getting brave, and although keeping her distance from the flock, she was exploring far beyond her safety zone. It was now time to provide an extra feeder and drinker where all the hens randomly hang out. The first argument is usually over food, so I attempted to avoid that war by protecting the established flock’s groceries. Sometimes that works, but sometimes the boss hens split up and claim both food sources. Meanies! That was a risk, nevertheless, against my better judgment, climbed a ladder 12 feet to the roof supports and hung rope for another oasis. Not only did I manage to survive that ordeal, but it worked… the hens did not split up, allowing little Randi access to the new chicken buffet.
Throughout the day I watched for trouble. Not expecting harmony by any means, but whether or not Randi would fair well in the hens’ coop that night still needed to be evaluated. Adding a new member to a flock can be ugly, and disturbing to watch, especially when it’s forced. Hens don’t take kindly to a newcomer at bedtime, every spot on the roost is not only reserved but earned.
Having a bird pecked on causes all sorts of other problems, all of which I make every attempt to avoid. Having injured birds means isolation, and wound care, not to mention another coop to clean. All that equals more work, but more importantly… the pecking order is interrupted in the interim. So it’s important to be patient and not rush introductions, new chickens find their place among the flock all in good time. Ample space is crucial, this allows the newbie to avoid confrontation and build the confidence to venture about without the constant fear of being threatened.
After a day of evaluating the flock’s somewhat aloof behavior towards Randi’s presence, I decided it was safe to put Randi in the hens’ coop that evening. But to avoid the inevitable roost argument, I let Randi return to her own coop at dusk, closed the door behind her, and waited an hour.
The best time to sneak her into the big girl hen house would be after the hens are roosting for the night. Why? Because hens are very unlikely to leave the roost until the first sign of morning light. I put another nest box in the hen’s coop area that none of the ladies have seen before… unclaimed. It was now time to move Randi from her coop to the hen house and place her in the new nest box. She’d feel safe there for the night, and in time… choose her own place to roost.
Up With the Chickens
What’s the first thing chickens do when they leave the roost? Eat, poop, and definitely do NOT want to see an intruder at their breakfast table. So I was there, at 6 AM to open the coop door… to freedom, creating a distraction far more appealing to the hens than dealing with the feathered stranger.
The ladies quickly left the newcomer behind and went about their business beyond the coop of confinement. Randi stayed in the coop, oblivious to the normal routine of the flock. The hens would be back to lay their eggs, and again at dusk to roost for the night. Eventually, Randi will join their redundant itinerary, usually within a month. In the interim, her spot in the pecking order will depend on her. She will remain the bird with the lowest seniority unless she aggressively earns a higher ranking.
Conclusion
After three days of all the girls being confined for the night, the morning wait for a human to come and open the coop door has been without any significant incidences, except for a few missing tail feathers. No blood, no bald birds, and minimal arguments… I call that success!

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Help for Determining the Sex of Silkie Bantams

It’s difficult, but not totally impossible to determine the sex of a Silkie. There are signs that can help you long before the first egg or crow of a rooster. Behavior and size can be good indications of sex.
Roosters are often bold, have that sturdy or stronger look, and sometimes they are larger. These are noticeable traits, even when chicks are still in the brooder.  Look for the brighter, or sharper distinctions of color in birds when they reach 8 or 9 weeks. Roosters seem to stand out more, dazzling you with a little wow factor.
These Silkies are all just under 3 months old, 2 white, and 2 buffs. The white Silkie pictured below is probably a rooster. He is much larger and has been at the top of the pecking order since the second week of life. The size between pic 1 and 2 is obvious, recognizing behavior traits is something you’ll notice by watching your own birds.

Jo, Silkie 12-17-14
Probably a Rooster
Pat, Silkie 12-17-14
Probably A Pullet
Fanny 2 Silkie 12-17-14
Probably a Rooster

All we really can do is learn the behavior traits of roosters and recognize indications such as size. But I must admit, I’ve been positive about having a Silkie rooster… and been surprised 6 months later when it laid an egg.  Gotta love those Silkie Bantams!

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How to Determine the Point of Lay

If you buy your birds as chicks, you can expect to feed and care for them for 22 to 24 weeks before they reach their point of lay. However, this depends on the breed, time of year, and the level of care they have received. It is not uncommon for some breeds to take even longer to mature and not produce until 25 to 30 weeks.
Some people would rather skip chick-rearing altogether and buy pullets already at their point of lay. Sounds like a good plan, but you’ll have to be patient with that choice. Even if they are laying eggs, they will most likely stop for as long as two months when they are moved to a new environment. It’s important to know the bird’s actual age too; point of lay doesn’t mean they are laying… it means they will lay in the near future.
Knowing the age of a pullet is important; you don’t want to feed a layer diet too early. Most people buy chickens to have a fresh supply of eggs. Rushing young birds may cause serious health issues, which won’t fill the egg basket!
So how can you tell if a pullet is actually close to laying? There is a simple way to check the age and the approximate point of lay.
Here’s How…
Pick up the pullet and tuck her head under your arm. Situate her so you can easily get to her rear end or vent area.
Locate the 2 pelvic bones.
If the pullet is not yet laying, the pelvic bones will be very close together.
If she just started laying the pelvic bones will be about 1 finger apart.
As a pullet matures and produces eggs, you will be able to put 2 to 3 fingers between the pelvic bones.
This test will give you an idea of a pullet’s age, it can’t tell you when you’ll get that first egg, but it will also help you determine the pullet’s feed requirements while you’re waiting.

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